Standard Rex Varieties Care Guidelines The Caged Rabbit Photos Home 100% of all proceeds earned from rabbit sales are donated to our local churches and church sponsored charities. "O taste and see that the LORD is good: blessed is the man that trusteth in him." Psalm 34:8 "Life without God is like an unsharpened pencil - it has no point." Billy Graham K&H Rex Rabbits is a proud member of: American Rabbit Breeder's Association National Rex Rabbit Club Central TN Rabbit Breeder's Association

Plight of the Caged Rabbit By: Vickey Hollingsworth, ARBA & NRRC Member – 2002 (Updated 2009) As a breeder of Standard Rex rabbits, and co-owner of K&H Rex Rabbits, I would like to shed some light on the cage rabbit plight. I often visit commercial breeding operations, and even private breeders, whose rabbits are housed in 24 square inch wire cages with a water bottle and feed hopper. This is where these pitiful rabbits exist until they die at an early age. Rabbits can easily live to be 10 years old with proper care. Sadly, commercial rabbit breeders consider a rabbit unproductive and "old" at the tender age of three. The rabbit is often passed on by the age of four or five. I wish to share the following information with you in hopes of educating you on the plight of the caged rabbit. Rabbits in their natural state are very inquisitive, playful, and extremely active animals. They exist in large groups and have a very distinct social structure. They build elaborate den systems called warrens and very seldom stray beyond their territory and warren. It is very stressful for a rabbit in captivity, as their social needs are almost never met. I would like to give some guidelines that will make for a much healthier and happier rabbit or group of rabbits. I will use the Standard Rex rabbit as a guideline, as they are my area of expertise. These rabbits range from 7.25 to 10 pounds, and are considered a "medium compact" breed. Rex rabbitrys usually house Rex in a 24"x24" wire cage. This has become the accepted norm, but it is not healthy. I will list the reasons why: 1. A tiny cage does not offer room for exercise. 2. The rabbits inquisitive appetite is not being met because there is no room for burying treats, scratching, and exploring. 3. Tiny cages do not offer the rabbit separate and distinct areas for eating, resting, and eliminating as their innate instincts tell them to do. My general recommendation is simply this: The larger the cage the better! The absolute minimum I will house a medium sized rabbit in is 36"x30"x18". The optimum cage size for a medium sized rabbit is 52"x30"x18" (length, width, height). A cage of this size allows the rabbit an exercise area, and will allow you more options in customizing the cage for the animal. It should be noted also, that with a cage this deep, you will need large doors for ease in working in the cage. Next, I will address feeding issues. Common practice of the modern rabbitry is to feed an alfalfa based pellet, water and nothing else. Rabbits naturally dine on roots, shoots, twigs, bark, green leaves, grass, clover, flower buds, and other tasty morsels that happen by. By placing a rabbit on a strict pellet diet, you are greatly inhibiting their digestive function, and their curious mind. We always feed fresh fruits and vegetables (apples, carrots, cabbage, lettuce, cauliflower, etc.) at least 3 times per week. We also feed oats and wheat or other grains as a regular part of the diet. Of course a rabbit should always be provided a mineral block and fresh water. When choosing a rabbit pellet, always look for the highest protein content you can find. Generally, a 17% protein content is sufficient. Your pellets should be small and very tightly and compactly formed. They should be very hard and crisp. This will help wear teeth evenly and ensure less waste. Rabbits must be fed alfalfa or timothy hay on a regular basis. Due to the makeup of a rabbit's intestinal tract and colon, they need a high percentage of fiber or roughage. We feed hay as free choice, which allows the rabbit to consume as much as it likes. One particularly bothersome area I see in rabbit keepers is the lack of a resting place. Cages are comprised of galvanized metal and thus are very hard on delicate feet. Rabbits would never naturally choose to "rest" on a sheet of wire mesh. Thus, they should be provided a resting area made of solid wood, canvas, or other suitable stable material in the diameter of about 14"x14". In some of our cages, we place a thick layer of hay on one end of the cage. The rabbits enjoy digging and burrowing in the hay, while their feet are being protected in the process. A rabbit can develop what is called "sore hocks" if they do not have an adequate resting area. The hocks become swollen, inflamed, and often bleed. Sore hocks cannot be treated in some cases due to deep tissue trauma. I was discouraged to read in a well known rabbit care book that only rabbits with thick plush hair on the hocks should be kept in the rabbitry. Rabbits that tend toward thin delicate hocks should be euthanized. It makes far more humane sense to simply provide relief from the unforgiving wire. Obviously good breeding practices would be to NOT breed rabbits who have thin boned and furred hocks. Only breed rabbits with strong, solid hock structure and thick fur. Remember to keep your rabbits nails clipped, as long nails transfer pressure to the hocks. Long nails can also become entangled in cage wire, causing severe damage to the toe. Rabbits thoroughly enjoy being turned out a couple of times a week into a safe rabbit proof area. They love to run full speed, jump, buck, and spring straight up into the air. Be sure the enclosure is free from predators, electrical wires, deep water, and poisons. Be sure the rabbit cannot escape. Remember they can dig under if not watched closely! We like to turn out rabbits once or twice a week for an hour each time. This coupled with a larger cage will provide the exercise desperately needed by caged rabbits. Contrary to popular belief, rabbits can coexist quite happily in the same cage. Does that have been introduced slowly, or does that have been raised together make great companions. Neutered males often get along perfectly with other neutered males or even does, provided they were neutered before the age of six months. Never place two intact males together or an intact male and a female. Both will spell trouble! Rabbits enjoy their cages close together so they can see each other and touch through the wire. Be sure they do not fight through the wire, as injury can occur. If a rabbit is diseased, it should be separated to its own cage until proper diagnosis and treatment with full recovery time has passed. A pregnant doe should always have her own cage complete with nesting material and a nesting box. Sharing a cage during pregnancy causes undue stress to the doe and can cause harm to the kits. Finally, but certainly not least, a rabbit should be provided with at least one toy. Rabbits love to bury things, root, and throw toys around with their nose. A small baby rattle is suitable as it provides a firm grip, makes lots of noise, and can easily be tossed. Just be sure that your rabbit cannot become hurt on the toy. If there is a loop on the toy, be sure your rabbit's head does not fit through the hole, which could mean death. Always be sure to observe your rabbit every single day. Check for sores, cage damage, injuries, ear mites, broken teeth or toenails, and general health. If you notice anything out the ordinary, contact your veterinarian. You can provide your rabbit with many years of healthy life if you follow the guidelines listed above. Cage rabbits do not have don't have to merely exist, they can thrive with nurturing care!